A scientific approach to the Health, Welfare and Optimum Husbandry practices of Captive Inland Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps)
About the author:
Hi there, my name is Gary Cooper and the main aim of this in depth care sheet is to help reptile owners to care for their beardies by using this document as a guide. I acquired my first bearded dragon from my local pet shop when I was 11 as a gift from my parents and as my dragon matured & grew so did my love for exotic animals. My fascination with exotic animals eventually led me to enrol onto an animal management course where I gained extensive knowledge on the care and husbandry needs of exotic animals which led to a weekend job working for the college as an animal technician during my final year at college, after my course ended I wanted to advance my knowledge further and applied to the University of Chester where I am currently studying in my 3rd and final year of my Biological Science – Bsc Honours Animal Behaviour Degree working with a wide range of exotic reptiles and Zoo animals, with a developing keen interest in Herpetology & Entomology (the study of reptiles & insects).
I hope you will find this guide useful and instructive.
Abstract:
This document is a guide to the overall care of bearded dragons in captivity and will outline the most appropriate and effective husbandry practices to ensure the optimum levels of health & welfare are met for bearded dragons and will be compiled by using a variety of resources from my own personal experience, books, scientific journals and websites.
Introduction:
Inland Bearded Dragons are Lizards from the genus Pogona which contains seven species all belonging to the Agama family (Agamidae), the Inland or (central) Bearded Dragon is found throughout Australia in many different environmental conditions including: semi-arid, desert regions, open woodlands and rocky areas covering a wide range of natural habitats (not just your typical desert environment).
In fact scientific studies of the presence of Bearded Dragons throughout Australia have concluded that the main areas where these reptiles thrive are in fact not arid or desert, this has become a well established myth that keeps cropping up in typical care sheets and is passed unknowingly from one reptile owner to another, the areas Bearded dragons have been found to live and thrive are in fact mostly grasslands alongside areas with greater chance of rainfall, and lakes (Which when you think about it, makes a lot of sense) as this is where insect and fauna populations will also thrive, an environment with an abundance of food, water and shelter from natural predators such as birds and larger reptiles.
There are several species of bearded dragons; the most common found and bred within the pet trade today is the Inland Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps) and come in a variety of colours and morphs with some carrying the names of the people who discovered them. Other Species include:
- Coastal Bearded Dragon (Pogona Barbata)
- Lawson's Dragon, aka Rankin Dragons (Pogona herny-lawsonii)
- Dwarf bearded Dragon (Pogona minor)
- Western Bearded Dragon (Pogona minima)
- Mitchell's Beaded Dragon (Pogona mitchelli)
- Banded Bearded Dragon (Pogona nullarbor)
- Drysdale River Bearded Dragon (Pogona micropidota)
The first line of these species of these Dragons native to Australia was introduced to England and Germany, through the Netherlands, these are known as the German Giant lines and are commonly referred to as a hardy/ high disease resistant line of Bearded dragons and can grow a few inches larger than the Inland Bearded dragon and are also known for producing larger egg clutches when breeding. (Further reading: History of German Giants) http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
All Bearded dragons are diurnal (active during the day) however in desert environments spend the hottest hours of the day hiding in underground burrows, under rocky crevices to escape the intense heat and reserve moisture. During the day they can be observed basking on rocks/ on top fence posts and also perched on tree branches being very skilled climbers they will position themselves to benefit from the Sun’s warmth, a very important behaviour to enable them to metabolise and digest their food whilst gaining optimum exposure to the Uva/ Uvb rays the sun provides to help them grow and mature healthily.
Life Stages:
Rough guidelines of age and classification: (Pogona vitticeps)
Hatchling to Juvenile: This transition is easy to spot as the dragons eating habits change, accompanied by growth spurts and a change in the dragon’s faeces from tiny samples to larger samples. For most P.vitticeps this occurs between 6-7 inches, 2-3 months and 20-30 grams.
Juvenile: Before dragons reach sexual maturity they are referred to as juvies, this age ranges between 3-6 months, weight: up to 200-250 grams and up to 12 inches in length.
Sub-adults: Although sexually mature at this stage they are still not physically mature, bearded dragons can and will breed at this stage, however it is not recommended as females will still be growing, sub-adults are around 6-18 months, weight: 200-400 grams and typically between 13-18 inches in length.
Adults: at 18 months + they will be more or less their adult size and ready to breed, a healthy inland bearded dragon at this stage should weigh in between 400-600 grams and measure in at around 18-22 inches. (Note: Females under the above weight are not recommended to breed)
Bringing a dragon home:
When thinking about adopting a Bearded dragon, now being so widely available it is important to consider the options of where might be best to obtain your dragon from, some pet shops today keep clutches of young dragons together in inadequate conditions (small enclosure size) leading to increased likelihood of disease/ passing on parasites, (incorrect heating/ lighting) and (sand as substrate) See gut impaction - to name a few so it is important that we as reptile owners know about other options e.g. Specialist reptile breeders who are up to date with the correct husbandry practices and procedures.
When choosing your dragon there are visual signs you should look for to select a healthy dragon to take home to join the family. You should always start from head to tail, checking the eyes, nose, ears, mouth, and cloaca (from which they excrete both urine and faeces) to ensure they are clear of discharge. Check the toes/ nails/ tail to ensure there are no missing/ damaged appendages, the scales/skin should have no cuts, scars, missing scales and they should be active, vigilant and inquisitive.
Potential owners of this species need to be aware that the relationship between owner and pet with appropriate care outlined in the guide will be a long one, though the lifespan of this species varies and is still typically unknown, as more is being discovered about their health and diet the life spans of these beautiful reptiles is increasing and are now typically exceeding ten years of age.
(Further reading)
http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
Behaviour:
Bearded Dragons display a wide variety of natural behaviours which is what makes them such an interesting species to keep in captivity. The name Bearded Dragon comes from its ability to Puff out a pouch located in its throat, this pouch supports scales and modified scales in the form of spikes which can be puffed out giving the effect of having a beard, this behaviour occurs in both males and females and is used as a form of communication between dragons. They also communicate by means of other physical gestures such as head bobbing and can flatten their bodies as they move to make themselves look bigger as a means of deterring predators/ unwanted hands in their enclosure. They also exhibit submissive behaviour in the form of arm waving (normally used to tell another dragon to back off) they do this by holding one arm up either still or moving slowly in a circular motion. In the wild Bearded Dragons are quick to establish a hierarchy using the above behaviours but adapt in captivity to their carers and generally aggressive behaviour becomes less obvious. Other behaviours include gaping: this is when a bearded dragon keeps their mouth open (usually found near a heat source) and is a method used by bearded dragons to control their body temperature as they have no sweat glands, a very clever behaviour used by this species to retain water to prevent becoming dehydrated.
Brumation: This is a naturally occurring behaviour within wild populations and something that should also be catered for within captivity, induced by prolonged spells of low temperatures, in the south of Australia winter temperatures can often fall below 10 degrees C (50 degrees F). When temperatures reach this range for more than a few days the dragon will seek shelter in preparation for Brumation. The dragon’s appetite will reduce and even become absent, sometimes for 2-3 months. The dragon may appear alert, although responding sluggishly to external stimuli (sound, movement), Dragons will sleep a lot during this time and Brumation is known by many as a bearded dragon’s form of Hibernation. As temperatures begin to rise in the spring above 12 degrees (54 degrees F) the bearded dragon will become active and resume its normal habits and begin feeding.
Winter Care (Brumation):
Brumation in winter is still recommended for Bearded Dragons in captivity, with some authors suggesting that it may be necessary as a reproductive ‘stimulant’ in early spring. Decreasing the temperature under the basking light to 24oC to 27oC (75oF to 80oF) and the night time temperature to 16oC (60oF) for 4-6 weeks can replicate the natural environment. As the ambient temperature drops, appetite and activity similarly decrease. Frequency and volume of feeding should be reduced during this period. Soaking the Dragon in lukewarm water 20 minutes every 1-2weeks can help to prevent dehydration. Shelter (hollow logs, artificial caves, etc) should be provided. As spring approaches the heat and light available to the lizard should be slowly increased over a few weeks. Once normal activity levels have resumed, normal feeding regimes can be reintroduced. (Info taken from – The North American Veterinary Conference, IVIS, 2006)
(Further reading on brumation) http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
Dragon Health:
If your Dragon is bleeding from an open wound/ internally (bloody vomit, or blood in the faeces or urine), paralyzed, or has abnormal swellings on any part of its body, or may have a broken bone, or has ingested a potentially toxic substance these are all instances when you should get your dragon to a vet as soon as possible. Visual health checks should be carried out regularly to monitor your dragon’s health and becomes easier over time. You will learn your dragon’s individual behaviours and if they are feeling a bit off however there are visual signs to be aware of in bearded dragons when they are ill. You should check starting at the head and ending at the tail with the: Eyes, Ears, Nose, Mouth and Cloaca (Anus) for any signs of discharge as this is one of the first sign’s of ill health, the body should be checked over to ensure shed skin is coming away naturally and there are no bite marks from live food being left in the tank at night (recommended to take them out at night, especially black crickets as they are more aggressive).
Shedding (Ecdysis):
Ecdysis - the periodic shedding of the keratinised layer of skin.
Bearded dragons shed their skin when they are about to grow this occurs every couple of months and is perfectly normal to see skin coming off in patches, it is also natural for dragons to eat their shed skin. When they are shedding it is advised to up the humidity by misting the enclosure every other day, this helps the skin to come away naturally more easily. Caution should be taken if skin is stuck around toes as dragons can lose their toes if it gets stuck, also you should never try to remove the skin yourself as you could damage the new scales underneath. This can be prevented by giving dragons a bath in Luke warm water (they might also take this opportunity to defecate in the water, which is natural). Pre-shed indicators: The dragons overall colour will get dimmer, duller and will start around the head/ hands, gray/ white patches will start to appear.
(Further reading on shedding/ problems) http://www.anapsid.org/shedding.html#ig
Correct method of handling and restraint:
Before/ after handling: It is advisable to wash your hands both before and after handling your bearded dragon with a good anti-bacterial hand wash or sterilizing hand gel. This is basic good hygiene that will not only safeguard you and your family, but will also promote the health of your bearded dragon too.
Bearded dragons should be handled using one hand, supporting the body with your palm/wrist and letting the tail dangle between the fingers while supporting the back legs with fingers and having the lizard face towards you leaving the other hand free to deal with wriggles/ place other hand on top of dragon lightly to restrain, this will also help the dragon to feel secure and prevent tail whipping.
Keeping Dragons in groups:
Bearded dragons are territorial reptiles, the males of the species watch over large territories with a social hierarchy determined by body size. When two males come into contact in one male’s territory, combat will take place in the form of displays, circling and tail biting. Within these large male territories, juveniles and females take over smaller territories and when they come in contact with territorial adult males, they exhibit a submissive pose by waving their arms slowly or holding their forelimbs up. Bearded dragons also exclude other reptile species from their territories including similar species like the Jacky Lizard (Amphibolorus muricatus). So with this in mind, within captivity it is not advised that you house two males to an enclosure or bearded dragons of varied size as larger dragons may eat younger smaller dragons however females can be kept together in groups.
Diet:
(All food items as a rule should be no bigger than the space between a bearded dragons eyes, this promotes healthy digestion and reduces the risk of gut impaction). Bearded Dragons are omnivores and have a very varied diet including insects, fruit and vegetables including dark leafy greens and occasionally with adults, small mammals. Within captivity we should provide a varied diet of fresh greens (fruit occasionally as dragons can become addicted to the sweet taste and go off their greens) and all live insects should be gut loaded by feeding the insect’s fruit + vegetables that will also be beneficial to the bearded dragons when they eat them.
Hatchling/ Juveniles: are predominantly insectivorous however fresh leafy plants should also be provided daily (chopped fine for young dragons) and should be fed on size appropriate crickets (no mealworms). Adult dragons: are predominantly herbivorous with plant/ fruit matter making up 90% of the diet as well as insects. (All bearded dragons are individuals and prefer different food items however in the wild they are opportunists and will readily eat any food that is available)
Diet Key: Staple (S) / Occasionally (O) / Rarely (R) / Never (N)
Insects: vegetables: Fruit:
Brown cricket (S) Dandelion plants (S) Pear (O)
Black cricket (O) Collard Greens (S) Peaches (O)
Locust (S) Kale (O) Strawberries (R)
Mealworm (O) China Cabbage (O) Melon (O)
Morio-worm (S) Mustard Greens (O) Mango (O)
Earthworm (S) Spinach (R) Grapes (O)
Wax worm (O) Ice burg Lettuce (N) Blackberries (R)
Calci-worm (S) Raspberries (R)
Fruit Flies (O) Banana (R)
Insects: Wax worms are high in fat and should be fed as treats, Fruit flies can be offered as a treat to young bearded dragons as they enjoy chasing and eating the fast moving flightless flies, Morio-worms are recommended to have their head or at least (mouth parts) cut off to prevent injury both internally and externally as they have strong jaws. Mealworms are low in nutritional value and should be gut loaded with sweet potato; they should not be used as a staple food but as part of a varied diet. Locust’s although easily gut loaded have high amounts of chitin and should also be part of a varied diet.
Vegetables: Romaine lettuce, mustard greens and spinach all bind with calcium in the gut and reduces the rate of calcium absorption making them inappropriate for a staple diet.
Fruit: Berries, star fruit and mango are all high in Oxalic acid and should be fed occasionally as it tends to bind with calcium in the gut and prevent effective calcium absorption; however they can still be included in their diet in small amounts as they do contain many beneficial vitamins and nutrients but if an animal has kidney or liver problems or is under any medical treatment for coccidia, I recommend not using any of these in their diet until after treatment is completed. Banana is high in potassium and also binds with calcium in the gut to prevent calcium absorption.
(Further reading)
(Beardie Salad) http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
(Edible greens for dragons)
http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
Supplements:
In addition to insects and vegetation bearded dragons require vitamin and mineral supplementation such as Calcium and D3 because captive diets are not rich enough in nutrients making it vital for bearded dragon health. However over-supplementation can also cause problems as in large doses can become toxic to bearded dragons.
The easiest and most efficient way of ensuring your reptile gets all of the vitamins and minerals it needs is by ‘dusting’ live food with the a powder (just a pinch) such a Nutrobal which is a great calcium/ multi-vitamin supplement. The best method I have found for dusting crickets is by adding a small pinch of calcium powder to an empty clean live food tub, add live food and shake gently until all insects are covered in the powder, then empty the tub into the tank. A good vitamin should contain beta carotene, instead of vitamin A. It will be converted into vitamin A when digested. Take note: that high intake of vitamin A is toxic for bearded dragons. A good mineral would contain 2:1 ratio of calcium to phosphorus. Otherwise, calcium absorption of bearded dragon would be difficult.
(Also it is bad husbandry to keep a dish of calcium in with your reptiles, this is not a suitable substitution for dusting live food with supplements as you cannot measure accurately how much calcium your dragon is ingesting)
A guide on vitamin and mineral intake for bearded dragons:
Young/ Juvenile bearded dragon up to 2 months needs to take calcium and vitamin daily; one dusted feeding per day is required.
2 to 6 months bearded dragon needs calcium daily and vitamin every other day.
6 month to 1 year bearded dragon should take calcium every other day and vitamins 3 times a week.
Adult bearded dragon 1 year + should have calcium every 2 to 3 days and vitamin 2 times a week.
(Please note that supplementation may vary according to health issues)
Housing:
A good Bearded dragon enclosure should include all the basics, shallow water bowl, food bowl, logs for the dragons to climb on to get closer to heat sources and gain Uvb exposure, you must also provide hiding places for dragons to move out of sight and feel secure and reduce stress. From left to right (or right to left whichever you prefer) you should have a heated area at one side of the enclosure moving cooler to the other side with temperatures ranging from 25-40 degree’s. Substrate: One of the most debated subjects by reptile Owner’s worldwide, time to set aside the myths from fact: Myth – Sand does not cause gut impaction and bearded dragons of all life stages can live on this substrate fine with no problems.
Myth Busted – All sand can cause gut impaction in reptiles (Especially Calcium-based sands as this clumps together in the gut) this is a serious ailment that can cause intestinal blockage in bearded dragons of all life stages with juvenile dragons being more susceptible to intestinal blockage. All lose substrates small enough for dragons to swallow can cause gut impaction, some of the safer substrates out there include: paper towels/ Lino flooring (Recommended for young/ juvenile dragons up to adult), Reptile carpet/ tiles. For those owners that wish to use sand as substrate there are ways you can reduce the risk of gut impaction by placing slate/ cork bark/ rocks and branches to reduce sandy floor space and encourage dragons to climb, however it is not recommended to use sand as substrate in dragons under 12 months old as they are clumsy eaters and can accidentally ingest sand with their live food. (See Gut impaction link at bottom of document for further reading)
Cleaning:
In an enclosed area the build up of bacteria/ pathogens can occur rapidly. Good hygiene is essential to prevent this. Faeces and uneaten food should be removed daily, and substrate changed every 1-2 weeks with the inside walls/ roof/ floor of the enclosure wiped down and cleaned thoroughly.
Humidity:
High humidity over 70% is detrimental to the health of Bearded Dragons. Levels in the range of 30% to 40% should be the maximum in an enclosure and will promote healthy shedding. Excessive or broad-leafed vegetation can trap moisture and increase humidity, and should therefore be avoided. Enclosures should be kept clean and dry. In areas of high humidity, it may be necessary to offer mist with water only occasionally and for short periods.
(Humidity – Setting the Myths aside) http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
Lighting and Heating:
Lighting: Ultraviolet light is essential for Bearded Dragons for calcium metabolism and absorption. Full spectrum fluorescent lights manufactured for reptiles should be placed no more than 30 cm (12”) above the lizard as within this distance they will gain max benefit from uvb exposure, they should be changed every 6-8 months (depending on the bulb). Basking lights, such as tungsten incandescent bulbs, can also provide some measure of UV radiation. Being a diurnal lizard, it is important that a diurnal cycle be maintained. Lighting should be controlled by timers to give 12 – 14 hours light in summer, and 10-12 hours light in winter.
Heating: The Preferred Body Temperature for Bearded Dragons is 35 degrees C (95 degrees F). Their Preferred Optimum Temperature Range -the range of temperature needed to maintain normal body functions is 35 degrees C to 39 degrees C (95 degrees F to 102 degrees F). This can be attained by basking and by absorbing heat from flat surfaces. To this end, a basking light should be provided at one end of the enclosure to provide a temperature gradient between 29 degrees C and 40 degrees C (84 degrees F to 104 degrees F). Heat mats can be placed under half of the enclosure to assist in achieving this gradient. Heat rocks are not recommended because of the high incidence of thermal injury when using them. Night-time temperatures are usually a few degrees cooler, often attained by just turning the basking light off with a timer.
Breeding:
Bearded Dragons achieve sexual maturity between six and fifteen months; body size and growth rates are more important than age. Most Dragons are ready to breed when they reach 30cm (12”) in length. Males are spermatogenic all year except for a period of brief regression in late summer. Females, on the other hand, are vitellogenic only in spring and early summer. Courtship behaviour begins in early spring, as day temperatures increase and the lizards become more active. The male initiates courtship. He approaches and circles the female, waving his arm, changing colour, extending his gular fold, bobbing his head and lashing his tail. Once she signifies acceptance by arm waving and head bobbing, the male grasps the female across back of neck & shoulders – in fact, he may even carry her around in this fashion. They then align their cloacas and the male inserts one of his two hemi-penes. The female signals the male to release by raising her head to a near-vertical position. Short-term sperm storage can occur; related to male competition. The precise length of time is uncertain, although it does not extend between breeding seasons. Egg laying occurs 2-3 weeks after mating. Prior to oviposition the female becomes quite enlarged in the abdomen, and spends more time basking. She may dig “test holes” prior to laying, but finally digs a shallow burrow, backs into it and lays her eggs, and then covers them loosely with dirt. She may return and defend her nest site for a few hours after laying, but finally abandons the nest site. Females are generally receptive to males immediately after oviposition. Each female usually produce 2-3 clutches per season, each of 14-26 eggs (up to 35 eggs have been recorded). Up to 7 clutches have been recorded in captivity. Clutch
size varies according to species and age. Clutches may overlap, i.e. the female may start to lay the next clutch before the first has hatched. This ability to lay multiple clutches is made possible by the presence of two
germinal beds in each ovary (unlike many other lizard species). Each ovary contributes follicles to each clutch, and vitellogenesis begins in the second germinal bed even before the first clutch is laid.
Sexual dimorphism (sexing dragons):
Bearded Dragons, especially juveniles, can be difficult to sex. Although cloacal probing has been described by some, sex is usually determined by external physical characteristics and behaviour.
VISUAL GUIDE TO SEXING
MALE FEMALE
Cloacal opening Wide Narrow
Base of tail Wide Narrow
Pre-anal & femoral pores Large Small
Head Large/ wide Narrow/ long
Hemipenes Present Absent
Beard Large/ black in colour Smaller/ Less black
Behaviour Aggressive/ dominant/ Not as aggressive/ dominant
Display beard more likely to exhibit arm waving
behaviour
Zoonoses:
These are diseases/ infections that can be passed on from reptile to handler without the correct hygienic procedures, all reptiles carry some amount of salmonella within their gut and handlers are most at risk when disposing of faeces. This is why we wash our hands well before and after handling animals to prevent the spread of Zoonoses to humans and vice versa and why regular tank cleaning is important.
Illness in Bearded Dragons: What to watch out for
Metabolic Bone Disease: http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/reptiles ... olicbd.htm
Chronic illness in Bearded Dragons :(parasite/fatty liver disease)
http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
Gut Impaction: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/
And:http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?c ... ate=Simple
Para o pessoal dos DB´s
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Deixo aqui um artigo que partilharam comigo e acho que está muito bom...
Muito bom! Obrigada pela partilha!
Um texto extenso mas que vale a pena investir uns minutos a ler, ainda por cima sendo um artigo científico (pelo menos está assim construído), dá-lhe solidez e credibilidade.
Deixo aqui um pedido de desculpas a um user a quem recentemente manifestei a ideia de que os dragões barbudos não hibernam. Segundo o artigo, eles praticam durante algumas semanas do inverno a chamada "Brumation" (que é o mesmo que dormência ou descanso, mas não encontrei tradução directa para o termo) - não fazem uma hibernação profunda, como as tartarugas, mas reduzem bastante a actividade e procuram esconderijo para se abrigarem de temperaturas mais baixas.
Um texto extenso mas que vale a pena investir uns minutos a ler, ainda por cima sendo um artigo científico (pelo menos está assim construído), dá-lhe solidez e credibilidade.
Deixo aqui um pedido de desculpas a um user a quem recentemente manifestei a ideia de que os dragões barbudos não hibernam. Segundo o artigo, eles praticam durante algumas semanas do inverno a chamada "Brumation" (que é o mesmo que dormência ou descanso, mas não encontrei tradução directa para o termo) - não fazem uma hibernação profunda, como as tartarugas, mas reduzem bastante a actividade e procuram esconderijo para se abrigarem de temperaturas mais baixas.
brumaçãoVeraG Escreveu:Muito bom! Obrigada pela partilha!
Um texto extenso mas que vale a pena investir uns minutos a ler, ainda por cima sendo um artigo científico (pelo menos está assim construído), dá-lhe solidez e credibilidade.
Deixo aqui um pedido de desculpas a um user a quem recentemente manifestei a ideia de que os dragões barbudos não hibernam. Segundo o artigo, eles praticam durante algumas semanas do inverno a chamada "Brumation" (que é o mesmo que dormência ou descanso, mas não encontrei tradução directa para o termo) - não fazem uma hibernação profunda, como as tartarugas, mas reduzem bastante a actividade e procuram esconderijo para se abrigarem de temperaturas mais baixas.