Interacção entre gatos

[Liliana-g]

Ola,

Hoje encontrei uma gatinha abandonada e fiquei com muita vontade de a adoptar. O problema é que já tenho um gato, Mr. Fred. Ele é muito mimado e sempre foi o centro das atenções aqui em casa. Não sei como deva proceder à adopção. (

Se me puderem aconselhar ficaria muito grata. E a gatinha também.

LG

[uaimori]

Se a gata for bébé não haverá muito problema, é uma questão de serem apresentados aos poucos e ,... o gato poderá demorar a aceitá-la de 3 a 8 dias. Não lhe devem fazer festas à frente dele. Há vários tópicos sobre esse assunto no fórum é uma questão de procurar.

[zuca_05]

tb adoptei uma segunda gatinha bebe e já tinha uma!
os primieros dias foram só bufadelas, mas acredite que depois de uma semana são amigos para sempre!
ainda hoje as apanhei a dormir enroladinhas e a maggie só está em minha casa há dois meses! são aimgas, irmãs, mãe e filha o que for, mas adoram-se!
tem é de ter o cuidado de os ter separados durante os primeiros dias enquanto não estiver em casa! depois é deixá-los entender-se!

boa sorte!

[Jordan]

Olá, vou lhe deixar alguma info que retirei da net sobre "cat Behaviour" o problema é que estão ambas em inglês; na verdade já houve uma forista aqui a tempos que as traduziu para o português, mas eu já não sei em que tópico era, e ao que parece esqueci-me de copiar a tradução; mas se tiver um pouco mais de tempo que eu comece a procurar nas páginas dos tópicos mais antigos sobre o assunto.

Se entretanto perceber bem inglês, aqui vai:

The personality of your older pet:

Even if your older dog or cat has lived peacefully with other animals in the house, there is no guarantee that he will welcome a new kitten with joy, or even tolerance!
Some benign older animals will readily accept any pet brought into the home. Usually, however, even the calmest dog or cat will be concerned at the appearance of a new kitten. When you bring a new kitten into the home, your older dog or cat will need lots of extra attention. He needs to know that you still love him and that the newcomer is not a threat to his position in your household.

Your new kitten:
When you first bring your new kitten home, it is important to isolate her. Choose a room in neutral territory (not where your older pet likes to sleep). This will give you time to reassure the older pet, and will also protect the youngster from possible aggression.

A place for kitty:

Equip the kitten's room with a bed, scratching post, litter pan, food and water dishes, and toys. Put the kitten in the room and let her explore a bit while you are still with her. Then leave her alone for a short time so she can become comfortable in the new surroundings. At first, the kitten may hide. Try to coax her out to comfort her. Don't try to push too fast, though. She will gradually become less timid with you.

First introduction:

Animals get to know each other by smell. Your older pet will spend a lot of time sniffing at the bottom of the door to kitty's room. The kitten will do the same on the other side. After a day or two, you should be able to determine the older pet's reaction to the kitten. A dog anxious to meet the kitten will scratch at the door and wag his tail, while a cat will purr and generally act curious or friendly. However, if your dog growls or barks at the door and your cat hisses and seems upset, it would be best to wait a few more days before attempting further interaction.

Take it slowly!

When your older pet seems ready, introduce the pets by opening the door just wide enough so they can see and smell each other. Be certain that you stand close by to supervise. Depending on their reactions, gradually open the door wider for short periods of time until they become adjusted to looking at each other without becoming upset. This procedure may take several days, but it is usually successful.

The first time the two pets meet face to face should be short and, hopefully, calm. If the older pet is a dog, proper restraint, such as a leash will prevent him from chasing and scaring the kitten. Don't force the issue. Let the animals go as close, or stay as far away, as they want. Repeat short introductions as often as necessary, until the animals are able to stay comfortably in the same room, with supervision. Don't expect instant friendship - that takes time.

Making a place for everyone:

Your older pet needs to be reassured that the newcomer will not take over his territory. If he has a favorite sleeping place, don't let the kitten sleep there. Provide the youngster with her own toys.

Animals are often possessive of their food and feeding dishes. Ideally, since the kitten should be eating her own kitten food, have her feeding dishes in a different room or area as long as possible. Monitor mealtimes to prevent either animal from pushing the other away from its plate. Since kitten food is best for her first 12 months, it may be a good idea to continue feeding your kitten in a closed room for awhile.

Although a premium quality food formulated for All Life Stages will provide complete and balanced nutrition for both animals, if your adult cat tends to be overweight, he does not need the extra calories that a kitten food provides. In fact, if your cat is already eating a diet intended for weight loss or weight control, the kitten will not receive all the extra nutrition she requires for her growing body if they are sharing food bowls. It is best to feed the pets the food formulated for their specific life stage.

Litter Tray

Two or more cats in a household often do share a litter tray, but many adult cats do not appreciate sharing with a kitten, at least until they are better adjusted. Providing two litter trays should help prevent your adult cat from starting to soil in inappropriate areas as an act of rebellion.

Friends, Friendly Enemies or Foes?

It may take a year or more for your older pet and the kitten to become totally comfortable with each other. They may never become friends, but simply learn to tolerate each other. Even if they remain stand-offish, most pets appreciate another warm body in the house when their owners are not there. But usually over time, the majority of pets find a workable relationship, even if they are not best friends!
Before you bring a kitten home:
· Have the kitten examined by your veterinarian to be sure that she is healthy and free of parasites.
· Make certain that all your pets' vaccinations are current.
· Aggression is diminished if both animals are neutered or spayed (the kitten at an appropriate age).
After you bring a kitten home:
· Isolate the kitten when you first bring her home.
· Introduce the adult and kitten gradually.
· Protect the older pet's "territory" and rights.
· Provide separate food dishes, water bowls, toys, and litter trays.

e

Two Cat Are Better Than One
by
Steve Duno


Although cats in the wild are by nature solitary, most domestic felines can readily appreciate and accept the company of other cats. This is especially true if two littermates are raised together from kitten hood. Though not necessary, this companionship can make your job as an owner all the more easy.

Some cats can become bored and listless if left alone all day. Though not as socially needy as dogs, cats (especially gregarious breeds such as the Siamese or Abyssinian) can react adversely to isolation, sometimes becoming destructive, noisy, or very messy. Although the addition of toys, feline furniture, randomly placed treats, or the sounds of a radio or television can often minimize this, a few cats just can’t get make it alone.

A perfectly good way of keeping a cat happy while you are gone is to have another feline friend around, preferably right from the start. They will play together, chase each other, or even sleep together in a ball. Both will burn pent-up energy and stimulate their minds while waiting for you to come home.

If at all possible, try to acquire two cats of the same age, right from the start, to insure happy times. Siblings are the best bet, but any two kittens of the same age should do nicely. Cats of opposite gender will generally have fewer incidents of territorial or food aggression, but same-sex cats will usually learn to work out their pecking order without much fanfare.

If you already have an adult cat, you can successfully introduce a new cat into the home, provided you do so gradually. Try not to bring in another fully grown cat, as the two may fight and posture for months before finding common ground. Instead, adopt a juvenile of the opposite sex; it will be seen as less of a threat to the established, dominant cat.

When you bring the newbie home, do not give it free reign. Instead, keep it in a separate room for several days, without direct access to the established animal. Let them smell each other through the door, and communicate vocally. Be sure to provide the new cat with its own litter box, and its own food and water dishes.

After three or four days, place the new cat into a cat carrier, then let the established cat greet it through the mesh door. Don’t worry if a little hissing goes on, especially on the part of the caged cat; this is normal. Leave the new cat in the carrier for an hour or so, then release it back into its room and close the door. Repeat this two or three times each day, for two or three days.

After this, open the door and let the cats interact. Unless they display dangerous aggression (biting or severe scratching), let them work it out. If the new cat is young, odds are it will submit to the older cat’s dominance. Soon they should begin to tolerate each other nicely. Within a month or two, expect them to be buddies.

With two cats in the home, you should use two litter boxes, two food dishes, and two water dishes. Doing so will minimize the chances of food aggression or house-soiling. Also, be sure to add a few more toys and into the mix, to reduce the chance of competitive hostilities. Always pay attention to both, and try not to play favourites!

One caveat: if possible, avoid having more than two cats. Owners with two felines in the home invariably begin having aggression problems when a third pet is brought in. Seen as a “third wheel,” the third cat often gets picked on and ostracized for many months, and often never gets completely accepted by the two established “snobs.” Two can be a satisfying experience, while three often upsets the social dynamic. Though exceptions abound, try sticking with two cats for now.

Two cats are nearly as easy to care for as one. Additional food costs will be minimal, as will be the price of the new litter box, extra litter, and dishes. Beyond that, one extra visit to the veterinarian is the only other fee you will pay for having two happy, socially active felines in the home.

Tenha paciência, não desista e Boa sorte!

[amus]

Boas Jordan,

Que tal foi a sua experiência? Elas já se entendem?

[Jordan]

Boas Jordan,

Que tal foi a sua experiência? Elas já se entendem?

Qual quê! Odeiam-se! A Clara tem aquele feitio que ... a Cléo é uma autêntica juvenil de dois anos e quase 5 kg que não pode ver nada a mexer que persegue... tás a ver o filme né!
Se a Cléo tivesse vindo mais pequena antes dos 6 meses, e fosse macho, tinha sido diferente a Clara não a encarava como ameaça dáva-lhe umas bufadelas e a metia na linha, mas com quase dois anos a Cléo já vinha grande e peste! :p A Clara dá uma bufadela e a Cléo salta-lhe ao pê-lo... é um filme!!! A Clara sempre senhora do Lar a Cléo é claramente uma gata dominante não há muito a fazer, temos que as deixar resolver as divergências sozinhas e só interferimos se elas se pegam mesmo... mantemos as unhas empre bem cortadas... coisas assim! A Vet diz que pode demorar, mas elas vão acabar por defenirem os seus espaços e conviverem pacificamente!

Mas pelo menos não se aleijam e na maior parte das vezes é só barulho, nem se tocam.

No caso desta forista a Lilian, vejo boas perspectivas, a gata parece novinha e como o residente é macho e eles têm maior aceitação ás fêmeas, elas mandam, eles obedecem e prontos!

E os seus, como vão?