alojamento para bombinas

[mgbravo]

boas pessoal esta e a situação uma amigo meu deume duas bonbinas mas eu n tenho nenhum aquario livre onde as por os unicos sitios onde as posso por~e num terrario onde tenho um anolis ou num aquario de agua quemte que tenho onde elas se podem por em sima duma elodias grandinhas que tenho no aquario qual deles sera o melhor?

[psylizart]

boas
Eu julgo que sera melhor coloca las nesse aquario de agua quente. Porque julgo que entre um anolis ou peixes,deve fazer menos mal no aquario.
Mas tb é so a minha opniao,eu nao percebo mt.
mas alguem neste forum vai te ajudar bem melhor do que eu
abraço

[gangstar]

Elas odeiam água quente, e se tem lá peixes muito menos, se tiver um faunário ou uma caixa de arrumaçao e o melhor para desenrascar!
Duvidas e só perguntar
Abraços e boa sorte

[TMSurfer]

Elas odeiam água quente, e se tem lá peixes muito menos, se tiver um faunário ou uma caixa de arrumaçao e o melhor para desenrascar!
Duvidas e só perguntar
Abraços e boa sorte

Han?

Fire-bellied Toad (Bombina orientalis)

by Devin Edmonds

Introduction:Fire-bellied toads are enjoyable for both novice and expert amphibian hobbyists to keep. They are brightly colored, diurnal, and hardy; a combination that is hard to beat. Most are grass green with a bright red or orange ventral side. Their entire body is covered in black spots and blotches, which become thicker on their red belly and often form a reticulated pattern. The dorsal side of some toads in captivity turns dark black or brown instead of green. Some have speculated that this is caused by a change in diet, light levels, stress, temperature, humidity, or a combination of those factors, but it’s unknown what exactly causes this. Fire-bellied toads stay small and mature at between 1.5 and 2.5 inches (3.8 and 6.3 cm). Males are usually smaller than females, and can also be distinguished by their more streamlined appearance and ability to call. The ventral side of fire-bellied toads is red to indicate that they are poisonous, and some will flip over and expose this when they feel threatened. For the safety of the toad and the keeper, it’s best to avoid handling these amphibians. Instead, they can be easily moved with a moist fish net or small deli cup.

Cage: A standard fifteen gallon aquarium that measures 24 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches high (61 cm by 30 cm by 30 cm) is large enough for a group of four adult toads. A secure screen cover is essential to prevent escapes and provide proper ventilation.

Fire-bellied toads are semi-aquatic amphibians that should be provided with both a large land and water area. Generally, the land area should compose roughly one half to two thirds of the cage space, and should contain hiding spots such as cork bark, driftwood, rocks, and live or fake plants. If gravel is used as a land area, it should be covered with large river rocks, soil, java moss, or sheet moss to prevent the toads from swallowing gravel during feedings. Fire-bellied rarely swim underwater, and prefer to float at the surface or near a shoreline. The water depth should gradually slope to at least 3 inches (7.6 cm), although deeper water can be provided. Pieces of driftwood, aquatic plants, and rocks can be placed in deep water to allow the toads to easily find a land area if needed.

One simple way to create a semi-aquatic setup in a small aquarium is to use a large water dish as the aquatic section. The water dish can be as simple as a plastic storage container, but large commercially available reptile and amphibian water dishes can be used as well. This dish can be submerged into a safe soil substrate such as coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth, etc.) to provide easy access for the toads. In the water dish, a large rock or two can be placed on one end to provide a gentle slope out of the water onto the land section. Because the volume of water is small in this type of setup, it can become fouled quickly, and for this reason the water dish may need to be changed as often as once a day. This type of setup is only practical for small aquariums because it can be difficult to lift larger containers of water needed for larger aquariums.



A second way to create a semi-aquatic habitat suitable for fire-bellied toads is to create a small shoreline setup. In this method, medium to large grade gravel can be used in the aquarium. Most of it can be pushed to one side to form a thick layer of gravel that creates a land area, while the layer of gravel on the other side can remain thin. The aquarium can then be filled with enough water so that the water level remains just below the surface of the land area. All exposed gravel on the land section should be covered with large river rocks, moss, or soil to prevent the toads from swallowing it during feedings. It may be helpful to use a small submersible filter, or in larger setups a canister filter, to help maintain good water quality. The output of these devices should be deflected with a rock or piece of wood to prevent too large of a current from being formed. Water changes should be preformed weekly or bi-weekly in this type of setup, with only around half of the water being removed at a time. It may be helpful to use an aquarium vacuum to suck out waste that gets caught in the gravel. It’s also recommended that water tests be done regularly in this type of setup.



If tap water is used in any of the above-mentioned cage setups, it should be treated with a tap water conditioner that removes chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. Bottled spring water can be used instead of treated tap water.

Lighting: A small incandescent light bulb can be used for heat if needed. A fluorescent light is not necessary, but will make the tank look more attractive.

Temperature: Fire-bellied toads are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures which is one of the reasons they make good captives. Normal daytime temperatures should range from 72F to 78F (22C to 26C), and can drop at night. Cool temperatures are tolerated well, and occasional drops down to 60F (16C) don’t present a problem. Avoid temperatures above 85F (29C). A low wattage incandescent light bulb can be placed over the land section of the cage during the day to create a warm area for the toads, and a submersible aquarium heater can be used to heat the water if needed.

Food: Fire-bellied toads have a large appetite for their relatively small size. Live crickets should make up the majority of their diet, with other food items such as wax worms, earth worms, black worms, and small silkworms being substituted for crickets every few feedings. Few toads will recognize pre-killed food, so all food items must be alive when offered. A feeding schedule of two to six feeders per toad every two to three days usually works well. Juvenile animals should be fed more often in small quantities. It’s important that any uneaten food or dead feeders be removed from the cage as soon as they are noticed. Adult fire-bellied toads should have their food coated with high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements once every two to four feedings. Juveniles should have their food supplemented as often as every feeding.

Retirado de http://www.amphibiancare.com

Custa muito fazer uma pequena pesquisa no google ?

[gangstar]

Elas odeiam água quente, e se tem lá peixes muito menos, se tiver um faunário ou uma caixa de arrumaçao e o melhor para desenrascar!
Duvidas e só perguntar
Abraços e boa sorte

Han?

Fire-bellied Toad (Bombina orientalis)

by Devin Edmonds

Introduction:Fire-bellied toads are enjoyable for both novice and expert amphibian hobbyists to keep. They are brightly colored, diurnal, and hardy; a combination that is hard to beat. Most are grass green with a bright red or orange ventral side. Their entire body is covered in black spots and blotches, which become thicker on their red belly and often form a reticulated pattern. The dorsal side of some toads in captivity turns dark black or brown instead of green. Some have speculated that this is caused by a change in diet, light levels, stress, temperature, humidity, or a combination of those factors, but it’s unknown what exactly causes this. Fire-bellied toads stay small and mature at between 1.5 and 2.5 inches (3.8 and 6.3 cm). Males are usually smaller than females, and can also be distinguished by their more streamlined appearance and ability to call. The ventral side of fire-bellied toads is red to indicate that they are poisonous, and some will flip over and expose this when they feel threatened. For the safety of the toad and the keeper, it’s best to avoid handling these amphibians. Instead, they can be easily moved with a moist fish net or small deli cup.

Cage: A standard fifteen gallon aquarium that measures 24 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches high (61 cm by 30 cm by 30 cm) is large enough for a group of four adult toads. A secure screen cover is essential to prevent escapes and provide proper ventilation.

Fire-bellied toads are semi-aquatic amphibians that should be provided with both a large land and water area. Generally, the land area should compose roughly one half to two thirds of the cage space, and should contain hiding spots such as cork bark, driftwood, rocks, and live or fake plants. If gravel is used as a land area, it should be covered with large river rocks, soil, java moss, or sheet moss to prevent the toads from swallowing gravel during feedings. Fire-bellied rarely swim underwater, and prefer to float at the surface or near a shoreline. The water depth should gradually slope to at least 3 inches (7.6 cm), although deeper water can be provided. Pieces of driftwood, aquatic plants, and rocks can be placed in deep water to allow the toads to easily find a land area if needed.

One simple way to create a semi-aquatic setup in a small aquarium is to use a large water dish as the aquatic section. The water dish can be as simple as a plastic storage container, but large commercially available reptile and amphibian water dishes can be used as well. This dish can be submerged into a safe soil substrate such as coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth, etc.) to provide easy access for the toads. In the water dish, a large rock or two can be placed on one end to provide a gentle slope out of the water onto the land section. Because the volume of water is small in this type of setup, it can become fouled quickly, and for this reason the water dish may need to be changed as often as once a day. This type of setup is only practical for small aquariums because it can be difficult to lift larger containers of water needed for larger aquariums.



A second way to create a semi-aquatic habitat suitable for fire-bellied toads is to create a small shoreline setup. In this method, medium to large grade gravel can be used in the aquarium. Most of it can be pushed to one side to form a thick layer of gravel that creates a land area, while the layer of gravel on the other side can remain thin. The aquarium can then be filled with enough water so that the water level remains just below the surface of the land area. All exposed gravel on the land section should be covered with large river rocks, moss, or soil to prevent the toads from swallowing it during feedings. It may be helpful to use a small submersible filter, or in larger setups a canister filter, to help maintain good water quality. The output of these devices should be deflected with a rock or piece of wood to prevent too large of a current from being formed. Water changes should be preformed weekly or bi-weekly in this type of setup, with only around half of the water being removed at a time. It may be helpful to use an aquarium vacuum to suck out waste that gets caught in the gravel. It’s also recommended that water tests be done regularly in this type of setup.



If tap water is used in any of the above-mentioned cage setups, it should be treated with a tap water conditioner that removes chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. Bottled spring water can be used instead of treated tap water.

Lighting: A small incandescent light bulb can be used for heat if needed. A fluorescent light is not necessary, but will make the tank look more attractive.

Temperature: Fire-bellied toads are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures which is one of the reasons they make good captives. Normal daytime temperatures should range from 72F to 78F (22C to 26C), and can drop at night. Cool temperatures are tolerated well, and occasional drops down to 60F (16C) don’t present a problem. Avoid temperatures above 85F (29C). A low wattage incandescent light bulb can be placed over the land section of the cage during the day to create a warm area for the toads, and a submersible aquarium heater can be used to heat the water if needed.

Food: Fire-bellied toads have a large appetite for their relatively small size. Live crickets should make up the majority of their diet, with other food items such as wax worms, earth worms, black worms, and small silkworms being substituted for crickets every few feedings. Few toads will recognize pre-killed food, so all food items must be alive when offered. A feeding schedule of two to six feeders per toad every two to three days usually works well. Juvenile animals should be fed more often in small quantities. It’s important that any uneaten food or dead feeders be removed from the cage as soon as they are noticed. Adult fire-bellied toads should have their food coated with high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements once every two to four feedings. Juveniles should have their food supplemented as often as every feeding.

Retirado de http://www.amphibiancare.com

Custa muito fazer uma pequena pesquisa no google ?

Tens Bombinas em casa? Se tiveres mete a temperatura a 20º e depois a temperatura ambiente e vez onde é que elas gostam mais de estar! Muitos anfibios deitam toxinas pela pele podendo ser prejudicial para outros animais! Um aqua com umas plantinhas e um tuppawere com 5\6 cm de água chega! eu nas minhas tenho lampada uv\b, tou apenas a falar por experiencia propria, e o que diz a net para mim e m*rd*, muitos sites dizem para meter areia propria especial para geckos e ambos sabemos o que isso pode causar, agr tens a mania de pisar as pessoas mas a ti digo-te já, nem tu nem ninguem me pisa!

Abraços e boa sorte

[TMSurfer]

Não tenho, tive.
Então põe as rãs numa zona da casa bem fria e diz que eles gostam de água á temperatura ambiente... Mas tás a gozar com quem ?

Acho melhor pesquisar um pouco mais, e te digo ainda mais, pessoas dispensam muita vez no aquecimento da água para poupar uns trocos tanto na eletricidade como na compra do termostato. Lembra-te que o Inverno em PT é bastante agressivo para elas... agora não venha com a conversa da treta que a água a temperatura ambiente é que é bom para elas, o uso de UVB não é propriamente necessário, mas claro que ter UVB não lhes irá fazer algum mal, até pelo contrário, irá facilitar a absorção do cálcio e ter umas cores mais vivas (o mesmo acontece com as cobras)

and a submersible aquarium heater can be used to heat the water if needed.

Em Portugal é necessário, agora vê lá como tentas mostrar que só a ti é que não caiem em cima, porque com essa tua afirmação sem nexo, mostra o grande conhecimento que tens para com bombinas...

[gangstar]

Não tenho, tive.
Então põe as rãs numa zona da casa bem fria e diz que eles gostam de água á temperatura ambiente... Mas tás a gozar com quem ?

Primeiro não são rãs mas sim sapos, a temperatura da água das bombinas e de 0º a 25º, visto que elas preferem mais fria do que quente, assim como não gostam de água muito funda, mas como o esperto es tu eu vou-te dar a razão e ficamos por aqui

Abraços e vê se começas a falar com mais experiencia

[TMSurfer]

0 a 25º ?
Só se as quiseres hibernar... ou congelar
Primeiro, as temperaturas minimas para hibernação das bombina é de 5º, caso baixe mais que isso, poderá levar á morte, entre os 5º e os 15º.
Para reprodução normalmente (tal como as cobras), hiberna-se o casal, para ter uma melhor postura, agora dizer que preferem água fria... já agora que zona habitam ? Pelo que sei, são florestas humidas, onde a água tem uma temperatura bem elevada... mas prontos, eu é que cá mando todos abaixo e não percebo nada

Você sabe a diferença entre uma rã e um sapo?

As rãs tem pernas mais longas, pele lisa, viscosa e saltam. Os sapos só dão pequenos impulsos e podem rastejar, sua pele é rugosa e mais seca e eles têm as pernas mais curtas. Tecnicamente, sapos são uma éspecie de rã.

[jpmf]

Ambos têm razão.

Gandstar água a 0º está congelada (sólida). A temperatura mínima situa-se nos 18º e a máxima nos 25º (isto condições óptimas).
Se de Verão não necessitas de um aquecedor para atingir estes valores na água, no Inverno necessitas de certeza.
A água deve ter profundidade suficiente para que consigam mergulhar, pois gostam de grandes espaços quer de água quer de terra, tal como transcrito no artigo do TM.
Tu também podes viver confinado no teu quarto, mas preferes ter mais espaço para te mexer, certo? As bombinas é igual

Quanto à UV, a sua utilização é um tanto ou quanto "opcional". Eu pessoalmente não uso, a não ser nas Dendrobates e nas tartarugas.
Todos os anfíbios necessitam de UV em cativeiro, devido à dificuldade que têm em absorver e fixar o cálcio, derivado da sua alimentação.
Eu como uso um suplemento de Ca, com Vitamina D3, não uso UV's. Nos terrarios em que tenho UV's, não uso esse suplemnto.

[jpmf]

Uma coisa é certa:

Anfíbios não são répteis

[gangstar]

origem: Leste Europeu até Oeste da Ásia
esperança de vida: 10 a 15 anos
família: Bombinatoridae
tamanho: 4 para 7 cm
temperatura: 0 para 25ºC

E por aqui me fico, senão fico mal visto, visto que é o que acontece com quem te metes
Abraços

[TMSurfer]

Erro grave...
Esperança de vida é acima dos 20anos não entre os 10 a 15anos, tamanho médio é de 4 a 6cm, nunca chegando aos 7cm, temperatura de 0º = água congelada, realmente... um cubo de gelo de bombina no whiskey deve ficar óptimo.

E ainda acreditas na zona de "care sheets" da arca ? Então vai ver todas uma a uma e vais ver a imensidão de erros que tem

[jpmf]

The tank will not usually require additional heating as long as the temperature of the room does not drop bellow 15°C. A fluorescent UVB tube can be used as a source of light.

@Gangstar
0º não é água é gelo.

"Normal daytime temperatures should range from 72F to 78F (22C to 26C), and can drop at night. Cool temperatures are tolerated well, and occasional drops down to 60F (16C) don’t present a problem. Avoid temperatures above 85F (29C)." in Amphibiancare.com

E assim de repente dos meus sites de referência nenhum menciona temperaturas inferiores a 5º.

[gangstar]

Realmente es fora de serie, tudo o que dizes está certo, o que os outros dizem e treta!

Fica bem

[gangstar]

Atençao que quando falo em temperatura ambiente, falo em mais ou menos 25º de dia e 20º de noite! E quanto a temperatura de água acredito que 0 seja abusado mas a minha água a temperatura ambiente está mais ou menos a 15º, está por cima do terrario da minha Atila!
Sem querer alimentar mais disturbios por aqui me fico
Abraços