http://www.rawlearning.com/
http://www.rawmeatybones.com/
http://www.rawfed.com/myths/
http://www.rawlearning.com/rawfaq.html
Tenho aqui um texto que me mandaram quando comecei a dar carne crua. Penso que seja muito útil para quem quer começar a alimentar os seus animais desta forma. Peço desculpa por estar em inglês. Quem não perceber alguma coisa por favor diga.
My recommendations for beginning raw feeding:
1. You`ll want to start with 2-3% of your dog's ESTIMATED IDEAL ADULT
weight. Tweak with more meat if your dog gets a bit skinny, a bit less if
your dog gets 'fluffy' over the space of a few weeks. You might start out by
weighing your dog, and weighing her meals; but most peeps don`t continue
once they get more comfortable and casual about feeding raw. Tiny, toy,
pregnant, puppies or very active dogs might need as much as 4 -5% or more -
very large, giant, overweight or couch potato dogs might need less than 2%
to maintain.
2. Ditch the kibble or canned – there`s been plenty of discussion on this
list about why processed foods and raw don't mix; just let it suffice that
your dog can reap the benefits of raw faster and more completely if you
donate the kibble to your local shelter asap. A species appropriate raw
whole prey model diet doesn`t include kibble. Or veggies, grains, dairy,
fruits or tons of supps. Or, for the most part, ground meats. No need for
w/rec/k bones either. And, your dog may be less motivated to make the change
if he can smell that kibble!
3. Offer at least 2 meals a day to start with. (three meals for a pup
under 6 months old or for tiny dogs) Feeding once a day (or even less often)
can be a great feeding plan for a dog, but not at first; too much new food
at a meal can cause digestive upset. Feed as large a portion as you can for
the size of the meal. No little pieces or cut up, 'bite sized' chucks. Dogs
need to tear into their food and shear hunks off to swallow and crunch bone
for physical, mental and dental health. They don`t chew or eat the way we
do, their digestion begins in their stomachs, not in their mouths. So
swallowing big hunks of meat and bone is fine. If it fits, its OK. If it
isn't happy in the stomach, the dog will hork it up, and re eat it, so it
will go down and stay down the 2nd or 3rd time. Its all good, that`s the way
dogs are.
4. Feed a little less at each meal at first than you think you should. Too
much new food over the course of a day or two can cause digestive upset,
too. Some dogs are, or learn to be, self-regulators. That means, no matter
how much food you offer them, or how often, they will only eat as much as
they need. You might just want to offer them fattier portions of meatymeat
pork, tongue, beef or veal heart with the cap fat left on, some trim) more
often, after they get used to eating raw. Just be sure your new-to-raw dog
knows that what you are serving is *real* food, then, leave him to decide.
OTOH, some dogs never get full! "Know thy Dog." is the motto that applies
here.
5. Stay with one new protein for at least a week, maybe two. You want the
dog to be showing you that he is well adjusted to the new protein before
adding in new stuff. Take it slow; add only one new protein every week or
two.
6. You can switch to a new protein by just serving it at the next meal,
and all the meals after that for a week or so, or you can add a bite or two
of the new protein in with the 'old' protein, gradually adding more new and
less 'old' over several days, until you are feeding all new and no 'old'.
Whatever works for your own dog.
7. Boneless meals tend to produce loose, even runny poops. A judicious
amount of bone in a newbie dog's meal will tend to firm things up. There
will be less poop overall; raw is much more digestible and less goes to
waste. Poops will be less frequent also, for the same reason. Bone adds
bulk, so sloppy poops can be firmed up by some (don't go overboard!) bone at
each meal at first. Too much bone and your dog can get " fossil" poops that
are dry, whitish and crumbly.
8. Chicken is recommended as the first protein to be introduced for
several reasons: its cheap, easy to obtain, easy to cut into different dog
meal sized portions, you can trim visible fat and skin if you need to tweak,
most dogs will eat it and its pretty bland. Read the labels on the chicken
before you buy; don't get any that say its enhanced with
flavoring/seasonings or salt injected. Some dogs get itchy or vomit or get
true diarrhea from enhancements. Whole chickens are the best to start with,
ime. Cut into portion sizes with kitchen shears, as needed.
9. Some newbie dogs vomit or poop bone bits. There is an adjustment
period, so you want some bone in most meals at first, but too much bone may
not be digested and the dog will just hork it up or poop it out. NPs, its
just the dog's way of saying "Too much right now, no thanks."
10. Some dogs will get the Bile Vomits or Bone Bits Bile Vomits (BV or BBBV)
when new to raw simply because their schedules or routines of eating have
been changed. When a dog adjusts to raw, his gastric 'juices' become much
more acid, to better digest the raw meat and bone. If he's expecting a meal
at a certain time, the 'juices start flowing' in anticipation of getting a
meal. When the meal doesn't happen, the dog often will hork up the
yellowish, foamyish bile, with or without bones. Sometimes they hork up BBBV
because raw digests faster than kibble, the tummy is empty, so it must be
time to eat. NP for the dog, he's gotten rid of the irritation. He may react
as if he feels bad, just because you are upset that he did it on your new
comforter, or on the white carpet.
11. A lot of dogs don't drink as much water or as frequently when switched
to all raw, all the time. Raw has a pretty high water content and most dogs
are forced by dry as dust kibble to over drink water to compensate in order
for their bodies to process it. If only fed raw, you don't need to coax your
dog to drink more water or even broth, just offer plenty of fresh water,
he'll drink when he needs it.
12. True diarrhea is not just loose, runny or sloppy poops. It is frequent,
liquid or watery explosions of poo that a dog cannot 'hold back'. True
diarrhea, imo, is caused by disease, parasites or inappropriate food or non
food items. The occasional loose poops, or "Cannon Butt" even over a few
days, that comes from feeding a few too many boneless meals or introing a
new protein or feeding too much organ at one whack, is not diarrhea.
13. The general rule of thumb for feeding raw is: 80% meat (muscle, fat,
skin, connective tissue) 10% EDIBLE bone (not all bone that is served must
be consumed) and 10% organs (5% of this is liver, the rest is as much
variety as you can find and afford) This is not an immutable 'daily
requirement'. Balance Over Time, over weeks and months is one of the raw
feeding mottos. ; ) If you feed true whole prey, that is; entire animals at
a time, then the meat to bone to organ ratios are 'perfect' for that
creature. Whatever parts your dog can eat of is right for him. In the wild,
wolves will eat off a large animal carcass for days, and each wolf gets
different parts. If times are hard, they will consume the entire critter,
including skin, fur, less 'choice' parts and will even crack the hard long
bones to get to the marrow, even hunt small prey, like rabbits, mice or
birds. If pickin's are plentiful, they will eat the easiest and choice
parts, and then move on. Because of variances in size, age, personality,
life experiences and dental ability, a particular dog will be able to
consume, or not: all or part or some or a little bone from any particular
animal. If you feed 'Frankenprey', that is; a variety of protein, body parts
and organs from different animals, to simulate the whole prey experience for
your dogs, you are challenged to find enough variety in all these aspects
for optimal health.
14. Organs - don't try to add a lot of organs or organ variety at first. An
easy way to satisfy the human need to "Do it all, right now!", is to toss
the gizzards and heart you get with your whole chickens in with a bonier
meal, a little piece at a meal. Heart and gizzards are organs, but should be
fed as meatymeat. The liver can be cut up into teensy bits, and fed a tiny
bit at a time with a meal. This will allow you to feed organs, but shouldn't
cause runny stools. If it does, stop feeding it and freeze those parts for
later on down the line.
My list of organs/offal, so I don't forget to look for variety; liver, heart
(fed as meat), cheek meat, head meat, salivary glands, feet, lips, oxtail,
spleen, tongue (usually fed as meat), trachea, esophagus, tripe, sweetbread
(thymus & pancreas), ears, kidneys, feet, repro organs, brain, poultry
giblets - heart, liver, gizzard and snouts. Heads, with all the 'stuff',
including eyes.
"offal" - viscera and trimmings of a butchered animal often considered
inedible by
humans.
16. You can feed pretty much any animal or animal part that your dog will
eat and that won't break the bank. : ) Common grocery store variety suffices
for some; chicken, turkey, pork, beef, lamb, fish, rabbit. Others can obtain
at a reasonable price and feed; goat, venison, emu, ostrich, bison, beefalo,
elk, mutton, mice, rats, guinea hen, quail, bear (bear?
), the list goeson and on.
17. If you must supplement, you can add Salmon or Fish Body oil, either in
caps or liquid. Make sure it doesn't have any plant based oils, like soy, in
there. You probably don't need much. Follow the recommendations that come
with the product you buy: http://timberwolforganics.com/pet-omega-oils
http://www.icelandpure.com/salmon_oil.htm
http://www.grizzlypetproducts.com/salmo ... n_oil.html
In the case of true disease, you may need certain supps, but this is the
exception to the rule, most dogs don't.
18. Lis' List; ways to creatively source cheaper variety in protein, parts
and organs.
1) Look up meat and poultry packers, plants, and distributors in the yellow
pages (or online).
You may be able to get great prices from them if you order in bulk,
and/or they may have a discount outlet that is open to the public.
2) ***** I get many of my best deals in Asian/Oriental markets. I've also
heard that Hispanic and Caribbean markets have great variety and prices
too. But not all ethnic markets are the same - some are much cheaper than
others - you must visit a few and compare.
3) You may be able to join a barter group.
4) Google breeders (i.e. rabbit, goat, lamb, etc.) who are in your
geographic area. They may have culls they want to get rid of, or stillborns,
or lower prices overall. Don't forget 4-H breeders.
5) Try bulk buying - Look up bulk suppliers and frozen bulk foods in your
yellow pages (or online).
6) If you have a Chinatown nearby, definitely make a visit.
7) Let your friends, relatives, and neighbors know you want any freezer burn
or old meat when they clean out their freezers, and tell them to pass the
word along.
Freezer-burnt meat may be dried out on the edges but is perfectly safe for
pets as long as it has been frozen all this time.
If you belong to a church or social group, tell those members to mentionit to their friends and relatives as well. You may be allowed to put a
notice on the bulletin board or in the newsletter.
9) See if there are any co-ops or meat buying groups near you. Check on
Yahoo, or Google to see.
10) Try Craigslist or Kijiji - it's amazing what you can get for free or
cheap.
http://www.craigslist.org/about/sites.html
15) Tell friends and relatives who hunt and fish that you want first dibs on
any body parts they don't want. You can probably get at least the organs and
maybe the head. Also ask them to put you in touch with their other friends
who hunt and fish.
16) A great tip I learned a while back – some restaurants and caterers throw
out things they don't use, like the organs that come inside whole poultry,
or raw meat that falls on the floor. See if they'll save them for you. Find
somebody who knows somebody who works in a restaurant or knows a caterer.
20) Tell your butcher you want the meat that they would normally throw out,
that is almost out of date, that people ordered and didn't pick up, stuff
that was dropped on the floor, their freezer cleanouts, and parts that don't
sell (like trachea, lungs, spleen, etc.). Some butchers will save their trim
for you (once they get to know you). Build a relationship with them first.
Many butchers will give you these things for free, once they know you (and
especially if you are a regular customer who buys meat for yourself).
21) Yes, roadkill works too (where it is legal). In some places you can get
your name on the list and get called when they have large roadkill (like
deer). You may be able to move to the top of the list if you say you don't
mind getting called at night or for kill more than a couple of hours old.
Pronto acho que já pus tudo o que interessa!
Mas graças a deus as universidades já andam a perceber e a tentar corrigir esse erro. E já há veterinários que se preocupam minimamente e que sabem o que um cão precisa e não é uma ração e pelos vistos já temos aqui exemplos.